From Full Skirts to Pants: How World War I Transformed Women’s Rights and Fashion
From Full Skirts to Pants: How World War I Transformed Women’s Rights and Fashion
Fashion in the 1910s changed rapidly, much like the world around it. Women were torn between the desire to be emancipated and free, and the longing to remain carefree and ethereal, slightly mysterious. This dichotomy resulted in a highly eclectic fashion scene.
The Eclectic Fashion of the 1910s
In the early 20th century, women’s fashion was a whirlwind of contrasting styles. The ideal woman was often depicted as a pale, melancholic figure with chestnut hair, draped in sheer fabrics like gauze and muslin. However, this image was starkly contrasted by the rise of suffragettes, who advocated for women’s political rights and self-awareness.
The era was marked by a blend of various influences. The colonial boom introduced Eastern patterns and materials into women’s clothing. Opera and ballet also played significant roles in shaping fashion trends, with styles like harem pants, thin fabrics, and intricate embroidery becoming popular.
The Impact of World War I
The outbreak of World War I in 1914 significantly altered the role of women in society. Women took on heavy labor in military factories and replaced men in various roles such as firefighters, police officers, and loaders. This shift in societal roles led to a change in fashion as well.
During the war, it was considered sacrilegious to spend time and money on cosmetics. Women adopted simpler hairstyles, often opting for short, boyish cuts. The ideal woman during this period was a selfless nurse, exemplified by the Red Cross sisters whose uniforms were designed by the couturier Redfern.
The Rise of Military Style
As the war progressed, military elements began to influence women’s fashion. High collars, patch pockets, and metal buttons became common. Skirts became shorter, and pants became more acceptable. The military style, characterized by lacing, strict lapels, and metal buttons, became prevalent.
By the end of the 1910s, corsets, elaborate hairstyles, large hats, and excessive embellishments had disappeared. Women began to explore new roles, such as aviation, which was met with disdain by many men. Female pilots popularized pants and overalls, further transforming women’s fashion.
Coco Chanel’s Influence
Coco Chanel revolutionized women’s fashion by introducing comfortable and practical designs. She borrowed elements from men’s clothing, such as the sailor shirt with a deep neckline and wide collar, or a leather jacket inspired by jockey attire. Chanel’s designs were driven by her personal preferences and comfort.
Chanel’s innovative approach led to the creation of new fashion staples like flannel blazers, loose-fitting skirts, long jersey sweaters, and the iconic Chanel suit—a skirt paired with a jacket. Her influence marked a significant shift towards more practical and comfortable women’s clothing.
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