Tasha Lopatenko: A Journey Through Gastronomic Anthropology

Tasha Lopatenko: A Culinary Journey

Tasha Lopatenko, a gastronomic anthropologist, culinary essayist, and honorary member of the Guild of Chefs and Head Chefs of Belarus, shares her inspiring journey with us. As a member of the Association of Restaurant and Gastronomic Critics of Russia and the international Slow Food association, Tasha has made a name for herself in the culinary world. She is also a popular blogger, traveler, and a devoted mother of two sons. In this article, she reveals how cuisine helped her adapt to life in the USA after her move, what a gastronomic anthropologist does, and how she balances her roles as a loving wife, mother, and woman.

Cuisine as a Motivator

Before moving to the USA, Tasha’s career in Belarus was not related to the culinary arts. However, her life took a turn when her husband suggested they move. At over 30 years old and with a basic understanding of English, Tasha found herself having to start anew. Cuisine became her motivator, and she decided to pursue it professionally. She improved her English, obtained a culinary education, and began participating in various culinary projects, interacting with American culinary stars. In America, the gap between culinary celebrities and ordinary people is small, and they are open to communication.

Tasha believes that no cuisine is beyond our curiosity, including those over 200 years old. As a historian, she strives to recreate the original version of a recipe. She views cuisine as an element of creativity and is interested in the thoughts and motivations of people when they cook. The first time she prepares a dish, she follows the original recipe to understand the result. The second time, she thinks about how to improve the dish, as some ingredients and spices may no longer be available or the taste may not be appealing.

Gastronomic Anthropology and Culinary Criticism

The term “gastronomic anthropologist” does not exist in Russian; there is only “gastronomic historian.” However, the profession of a gastronomic anthropologist is well-known in Europe and the USA. A gastronomic anthropologist is a historian, critic, and reviewer who not only evaluates a dish and its preparation technology but also knows its history, how it is prepared in different countries, and what makes it unique in each. Food is not just about recipes; it is a powerful engine of progress, and the task of a gastronomic anthropologist is to tell this story.

In Belarus, Tasha is the only non-professional journalist who is a member of the Association of Restaurant and Gastronomic Critics of Russia. The association holds significant weight in Russia, and its members’ opinions are highly regarded. To join, one needs a recommendation, and Tasha was recommended by chefs from Russia and Ukraine, as well as journalists who write for Russian publications. She is proud to represent her country in the association. However, the paradox is that her membership helps her in the USA, Europe, and post-Soviet countries but does not play any role in Belarus.

Being a culinary critic means turning off the “show” and evaluating the dish, not the chef’s personality or the establishment’s owner. For a critic, food is work, and they should approach it calmly. The first thought should not be about writing something negative but about how delicious the food was, primarily for themselves. There is a good principle: if you want to say something negative to a person, think of ten positive qualities, mention eight, then say the negative one, and finish with the remaining two positive qualities. This way, the criticism will be constructive and not a personal insult.

American Cuisine

Tasha’s main specialization is American cuisine and its history: development, the influence of immigrants, and its role on a global level. Many people think that American cuisine is just hamburgers and potatoes. However, few know that American cuisine is the main popularizer of other cuisines. Thanks to the USA, the world knows pizza, hamburgers, French fries, and soda. How did ordinary Italian pizza become a global dish? After the war, American soldiers returned home and started asking for pizza in cafes and restaurants. Thus, pizza was reborn and quickly became popular not only in the USA but also in other countries.

Traditional American cuisine exists, but it varies in each of the 50 states. Texan cuisine is very different from Californian cuisine, despite their relative proximity: it includes steaks, potatoes—everything hearty and seasoned with “hot” spices. Californian cuisine consists of salads, sandwiches, various fish dishes, and has a strong Italian influence. For example, Napa restaurants continue to receive awards for preserving Italian authenticity and outperform Italian restaurants in many international competitions. Louisiana cuisine is all about France, lightness, fun, and voodoo. New York cuisine is a separate phenomenon; this state is a kind of Mecca where you can find any cuisine. For instance, Russian cuisine in Brighton is a “taste of childhood”: here you can try “that very” jelly and “that very” Olivier salad. Of course, there is fast food, but contrary to our beliefs, it constitutes a smaller part.

Cabbage Rolls and Charity

Culinary culture in Belarus is developing: there are culinary bloggers, famous chefs, and even culinary programs. However, it seems that this is all in some other world: there is no open communication, opportunity to express opinions, or discussions. There is no interconnection and unity. We seem to promote Belarusian cuisine but do so in different directions, tearing everything apart, each on their own. We do nothing for cuisine or with the help of cuisine: we do not engage in charity, do not help anyone—we bring no benefit to cuisine. We just cook, write, cook, write. With a few exceptions.

In the USA, with the help of cuisine, we raised a large sum for a charity project supporting Russian-speaking people. Moreover, we had to raise the maximum amount in a minimal time with a limited budget. The simplest option was to contact the management of several good restaurants and get a check—this is not a problem in the USA. However, such an option would never receive public resonance. Therefore, we decided to organize an evening of cabbage roll cooking. In America, I should note, there is a very tender attitude towards cabbage rolls—this is a dish for big holidays. And if a girl can cook cabbage rolls, she is a priceless bride; her “stock” rises sharply.

We prepared different cabbage rolls: according to my own recipe, my mother’s recipe, as well as traditional American, Mexican, and Indian cabbage rolls. In total, we made about 900 pieces: guests ate some, and the rest were sold. In addition, we held master classes on preparing various salads, cookie painting, and dish decoration. Moreover, the guests did not just watch the process but actively participated: they molded cabbage rolls, cut salads, ate, and communicated. The evening was incredibly successful.