Madagascar: The Enchanting Land of Lemurs and Ancient Baobabs

What comes to mind when you hear about Madagascar? Is it the animated movie about zoo animals? Or perhaps a song from another animated film that starts with, “In Madagascar, Colombo, and Sahara, I’ve been everywhere, I’ve seen the white light”? Maybe you think of the land of lemurs or the incredible thousand-year-old baobabs? Or perhaps you recall Gerald Durrell, who marveled at Madagascar, a place that has everything France is famous for, including wines, but without the French?

Unique Wildlife and Culture

Madagascar is the world’s largest island nation, home to over 22 million people. Contrary to common belief, these people are not Africans. Although Africa is the nearest continent, the island is primarily inhabited by descendants of Polynesians, similar to modern-day Malaysia and Indonesia. Millions of years ago, Madagascar separated not from Africa but from India, which is why its animals and plants are unique. Having evolved in complete isolation, 90% of the island’s flora and fauna are endemic, meaning they are found nowhere else on Earth.

Language and Traditions

As a former French colony, all residents speak French, even street beggars and homeless children. English is common in tourist areas. The native Malagasy language, however, belongs to the Malayo-Polynesian group and bears no resemblance to European languages.

The descendants of Polynesians arrived on the island about two thousand years ago, preserving their traditions and culture to this day. Traditional homes are wooden, built in the Indonesian style with boat-shaped roofs. Inside, there is one large room used for cooking and sleeping, with the bed always positioned towards Indonesia to avoid upsetting the ancestors. Modern homes are made of stone and brick, sometimes mixed with wood. The royal palaces were originally wooden, later topped with stone, which is why they all burned down during political upheavals in 1995. However, the main palaces are set to reopen next year after reconstruction for the independence anniversary. Until then, they can only be admired from the outside.

Religion and Superstitions

About half of the population still practices the original Austronesian religion, which involves ancestor worship and animism. Centuries of colonization, French violence, English missionary bribes, Catholic Church tactics, and Muslim community settlements have not affected their beliefs. Villagers still consult shamans and sorcerers, even for church ceremonies like weddings or baptisms.

Madagascar is rich in intriguing superstitions. For instance, Malagasy people only recently started eating eggs, previously using them only for construction. The aversion to eggs stems from their resemblance to the number zero, considered an unlucky sign. Another unlucky sign is the birth of twins, leading to the tradition of separating them, often sending one child to be raised far away. In the past, twins were abandoned in the forest.

Antananarivo: The Capital City

Both guidebooks and locals often overlook the capital, suggesting that three days are enough to explore it. However, the architecture of Antananarivo (or Tana) is captivating, blending various cultures and traditions. Officially, Tana has a population of two million, but it is believed to be at least double that. The narrow streets of the center are almost always congested. Built on 12 hills, Tana was once home to a palace on each hill. A clever king, who united these lands, married 12 noble ladies, building each a palace on a hill, ensuring his safety from potential unrest and rebellions.

Exploring Tana requires physical fitness due to the steep inclines of its streets, some of which are long staircases with dozens of steps. During the rainy season, water flows down these steps, knocking down anyone brave enough to climb.

Most of Tana’s attractions are included in standard tours: the royal palace (still under restoration after another fire), the national museum, main churches, a giant statue of the Virgin Mary, a panoramic view from the highest hill, and the pirate museum.

Lemurs: The Sacred Animals

Lemurs, nearly 100 species of which are known to science, are the symbol and sacred animal of Madagascar. Although formally classified as primates, their appearance and meowing sounds make them seem more like cats. In the Lemur Park near Antananarivo, various species from different parts of the island are gathered, each provided with suitable conditions. For instance, bamboo lemurs have various types of bamboo, including Vietnamese and Japanese. Here, lemurs are accustomed to tourists, continuing to eat or sleep while being photographed. They no longer live in the wild, as the park provides them with food several times a day.

All lemur species live in colonies or large families with a matriarchal structure, where the female leads the colony. Most species are monogamous and pair for life. One species always gives birth to twins, which are not subject to the Malagasy taboo on twins and are raised with joy.

Feeding or touching lemurs in the park is prohibited. Those who want to feel the softness of a lemur’s fur must visit the coast.

Morondava: The Western Coast

Morondava is the western and most resort-like coast of Madagascar. Be cautious of online guides, as much of the information may be inaccurate. Getting to Morondava is not easy. The island’s roads are poor, making a 600-kilometer journey easier to fly than drive for 20 hours. However, “easier” is relative, as flight tickets cost around $300. Due to bad roads and high airfare, many Malagasy people have never seen the widely advertised attractions. For example, my two classmates, who have lived in Madagascar for 40 years, have never seen the Avenue of the Baobabs in Morondava. Most locals have never left their district.

If a guidebook mentions that an attraction is “near” Morondava, it could mean 10 to 15 hours by car (if accessible by jeep). If promised a trip to the stone forest park from Morondava, divide the promise by 10. Although the park is 250 kilometers away, Madagascar’s roads make tours at least three days long: one day for the journey, one day in the park, and one day for the return trip.

Morondava is a city of over 40,000 inhabitants, but the main interest for tourists is the central street built along the main airport-beach road. Here, you can find beach hotels, cafes, restaurants, bars, food, clothing, hairdressers, SIM cards, ATMs, and anything else a tourist might need. Beyond the central street are huts, not Latin American favelas, inhabited by ordinary poor people. It is safe to walk among these huts.

Unfortunately, the promised beautiful beaches were not found. Perhaps after visiting the Seychelles or Zanzibar, my expectations were too high. Even at a hotel where a bungalow costs 150 euros per night, the beach was far from picturesque. There was no “Bounty”-style scenery, the water did not look clean, and the city beach was rocky.

For more information, visit the official Madagascar tourism website.