Experience Monte-Carlo Like a VIP: Off-Season Luxury Without the Crowds

The sun dips below the horizon in Monte-Carlo, signaling the start of another glamorous night filled with high stakes and elegance. After indulging in the exquisite pastries crafted by renowned pastry chef Cédric Grolet earlier in the day, I’m feeling a bit lightheaded. A refreshing cold shower and a stylish cocktail dress later, I’m ready to explore Casino Square, home to the stunning opera house designed by Charles Garnier.

The Casino Experience

Presenting my passport to the attendant, I step into the Salle Europe, the vibrant heart of the casino. The room is alive with activity: ballerinas pirouette gracefully in one corner, while neon-lit slot machines beckon invitingly in another. Roulette tables manned by croupiers in black tie attire spin vintage wheels for sharply dressed patrons hoping for a stroke of luck. A woman adorned in a gypsy-like headdress lounges on a velvet sofa, adding to the eclectic atmosphere.

As I wander through the labyrinth of rooms, I’m struck by the breathtaking beauty of the Beaux-Arts architecture. The soaring ceilings, glittering chandeliers, ornate stucco work, and abundant gold accents create a timeless elegance that transcends centuries.

Luxury Living in Monte-Carlo

Monte-Carlo has long been synonymous with luxury and decadence. During my stay, I’m treated to the finest experiences the city has to offer:

Sipping Perrier-Joüet Champagne at the elegant Hôtel Hermitage
Savoring creamy caviar on potato rosti at Cédric Grolet
Feasting on lobster claws at Pavyllon, celebrity chef Yannick Alléno’s Monaco hotspot
Indulging in oysters at the two-Michelin-starred Japanese restaurant L’Abysse

Monte-Carlo offers instant access to 24/7 luxury, but it requires a strong stomach and deep pockets. Spanning just 500 acres, the city-state of Monaco is slightly larger than Hyde Park, making off-season the perfect time to visit and avoid the summer crowds.

Exploring the Hotels

The lobbies of Monte-Carlo’s hotels are filled with the scent of cinnamon. At the Hôtel de Paris, a towering Christmas tree designed by Chopard features hundreds of gold baubles floating up to the ceiling like bubbles in a Champagne flute.

After my casino visit, I head to the Bar Américain in the Hôtel de Paris’s former reading room. Musicians in pale pink blazers and dickie bows perform crowd-pleasing jazz tracks while bartenders shake up classic cocktails. Still feeling a bit fragile, I opt for fresh mint tea poured from a gleaming silver pot, soaking in the music and the history of the place.

The next morning, I open the shutters of my spacious suite at the Hôtel Hermitage to clear blue skies and the occasional seagull perched on my balcony. Everything about the Hôtel Hermitage feels like a step back in time, from its Belle Epoque artworks to its spectacular stained glass roof in the Winter Garden designed by Gustave Eiffel.

Fresh flowers and a box containing a pair of scallop shell-shaped madeleines are left by my bedside. I enjoy them on my terrace with a cup of lime blossom tea, savoring the view of yachts floating in the harbor and villas carved into the cliffs.

Dining and Wine Cellars

Le Limún bar, just beyond the lobby, is one of the prime people-watching spots in Monaco. With its elegant decor and dainty cakes, it’s one of the prettiest hotel spaces I’ve dined in. I order the steak tartare adorned with crispy fried onions and a giant caper, served with a tiny pot of Hôtel Hermitage-branded mayonnaise.

Afterwards, I’m led deep underground to the cellars of the Hôtel de Paris, created in 1864 by Marie Blanc. The cellars are an oenophile’s delight, stocked with over 300,000 bottles from every big name you can imagine, from Château Lafite and Margaux to Pétrus and Krug.