Chokers: A Timeless Trend with a Rich History

From luxurious leather collars inspired by Vivienne Westwood to plastic tattoo chokers reminiscent of the 90s, this accessory enjoys incredible popularity today. Adorning the necks of countless women of all ages, chokers complement both casual and evening attire. But behind this new trend lies a rich and fascinating history that proves fashion is not just about constantly reinterpreting traditions. It is also a symbolism-filled sphere of life that defines and regulates the states of our souls. Let’s delve into why chokers have suddenly become so popular and what else you should know about this ambiguous accessory.

The Submissive 16th Century

One of the earliest appearances of the choker as a fashionable accessory dates back to the 16th century, a time filled with palace intrigues and tumultuous historical events, closely tied to sex and vice. Anna Boleyn, known for her dark love affairs, was one of the first women to make the choker a popular adornment. The wife of King Henry VIII of England and a condemned witch, Anna wore a pearl-embellished choker that accentuated her sexuality, status, and the submissive undertones of her position at court.

The Symbolism of the French Revolution

In the 18th century, during the Great French Revolution, ordinary women wore thin red ribbons around their necks as a sign of sympathy for those who met their death by the guillotine. This symbolic gesture later evolved into another fashion trend, with ribbons worn in the shape of an X, covering the shoulders and back.

Elegance and Aesthetics

After the state conflicts subsided and fashion could evolve in peacetime, chokers emerged not as a symbol of revolution but as an aesthetic element. The fashionable accessory can be seen in Manet’s painting “Olympia,” dated 1863, depicting a prostitute with a black ribbon around her neck. This historical evidence suggests that chokers were popular among prostitutes and served as an indicator of their profession.

In the 1870s and 1880s, Degas gifted the world with his legendary paintings of ballerinas, whose necks were also adorned with delicate accessories. Whether the artist intended to convey something about the ballerinas themselves or his vision of art remains open to interpretation. However, one thing is clear: the choker became a symbol of aesthetics and refinement.

Royal Fashion

Among the nobility, chokers enjoyed a different kind of popularity. Naturally, the luxurious ornaments worn by princesses and queens differed from those seen on the necks of women from lower social classes. Within the royal elite, the concept of the “dog collar” emerged, quickly transforming from something mundane and practical, entirely incompatible with the refinement of respectable ladies, into an elegant trendy accessory. Noble women wore chokers adorned with diamonds, precious stones, leather, and velvet, and even put them on their dogs, parading around their estates and enjoying the attachment to their pets. This accessory perfectly suited the neck sizes of small dogs.

However, Alexandra, the Princess of Wales, elevated the fashionable accessory to new heights by using it to conceal a scar on her neck. This use of the choker made her very popular, although it did not draw any attention to the issue of accepting one’s imperfections. According to historical records, Alexandra did not invent this original accessory but was inspired by the ethnic costumes of Indian women, as she had visited India several times. Seeing how women from Bombay wore ornaments, Alexandra decided that this was the simplest and most aristocratic way to emphasize her virtues and hide her flaws.

1944: The Revival of the Trend

During this period, the fashion industry once again spoke of dog collars. One issue of Life Magazine featured models adorned with various leather chokers, signaling the return of the trend under the slogan “Collars are back in fashion for both dogs and people.” Such an advertising campaign might seem surprising today, but as practice showed, it worked, and the trend remains popular to this day.

The Roaring 90s

Chokers gained their greatest popularity in the 90s when people craved freedom, challenge, and impeccable style. The trend towards infantilism, rebellion, and the aesthetics of nymphs led to most stars, models, and ordinary girls embracing the choker with open arms. The mass market produced new models, and fashion enthusiasts continued to buy and showcase them at every opportunity.

2017, Vintage, and the Return of a Legend

Today, chokers have become extremely popular thanks to the return of other legendary elements of the 90s wardrobe, such as mom jeans, oversized sweaters and hoodies, and a heightened interest in vintage. Chokers have simply become part of the ensemble that we all missed, especially for those who were not yet able to appreciate the swag of the 90s because they were too young or not even born.

Thanks to the ever-evolving nature of fashion, we can enjoy a wide variety of original models that suit any outfit. Credit must be given to the trend that has spanned centuries and graced the necks of women from all social statuses. The choker is indeed a very stylish and elegant accessory that adds meaning and ambiguous subtext to an image. Who are you today: a charming nymph, a follower of gothic, refined femininity, or a fatal beauty? The choker can answer all these questions.

For more information on fashion trends, you can visit Vogue.