Cosmetic Ingredients to Avoid: A Biochemist’s Guide to Safer Beauty Products

Cosmetic Ingredients to Avoid: A Biochemist’s Guide to Safer Beauty Products

We often purchase creams, lipsticks, and other beauty products without closely examining the labels. We trust sanitary controls and brand reputations. However, it’s essential to study the ingredients, as many manufacturers use substances that, while permitted, are viewed ambiguously by health experts. Biochemist Nadezhda Triputen shares insights on which cosmetic ingredients to avoid.

Sodium Lauryl Sulfate and Sodium Laureth Sulfate

Almost any foaming product irritates the skin because it contains surfactants. The most undesirable surfactants are sulfates (SLS, SLES). These are often found in facial cleansers and soaps. If the packaging lists “sodium …-ate” or “potassium salts of oils…”, it’s best to avoid these products. Such cleansers are never gentle, even if they have a natural origin.

Nadezhda advises against various facial jams, beldi, and soaps containing these substances:

• Soap dries out the skin and destroys the protective lipid layer.
• Soap does not solve acne or oily skin problems; it can make them worse over time, leading to acne flare-ups and dehydrated skin.
• Another myth is moisturizing or nourishing cleansers. Even the gentlest surfactants can irritate and dry the skin. In good formulations, they are balanced with moisturizing components like oils, squalane, glycerin, aloe, and proteins.

Important Facts About Surfactants

• The longer a surfactant-based product stays on the skin, the more it irritates. Wash your face quickly and avoid leaving foaming products as a mask.
• Hot water increases the aggressive effects of cleansers. It’s better to wash with warm or cool water.
• Use natural bar soap as intended—for hands or body, not the face.

Other Harmful Cosmetic Ingredients

• Kathon – Methylchloroisothiazolinone and Methylisothiazolinone: Strong allergens. The mixture of Methylchloroisothiazolinone (CMIT) and Methylisothiazolinone (MIT) is banned in leave-on cosmetics in the EU due to potential contact dermatitis. The mixture (CMIT/MIT) is also known by the commercial name Kathon CG.
• BHT (BHT) – Butylhydroxytoluene: An allergen and carcinogen.
• Imidazolidinyl Urea and DMDM HYDANTOIN: Formaldehyde-releasing components (carcinogens).
• Triethanolamine (TEA): Toxic to the skin and respiratory organs, with carcinogenic effects.
• DEA (oleamide DEA): A toxic substance with carcinogenic effects and a strong irritant.
• Hydroquinone: Extremely toxic, banned in the EU. It has potential carcinogenic and cytotoxic effects and can cause hyperpigmentation.
• Quaternium: A strong allergen, particularly dangerous to the eyes.
• Triclosan: Can cause contact dermatitis and endocrine disruptions.
• PEG, Ceteareth: Not the most dangerous substances, but best avoided, especially if you have sensitive skin. They are strong irritants.
• Polyethylene: Microplastic, not harmful to humans but pollutes the environment and can accumulate in the body.

Are Parabens as Scary as They Seem?

Parabens are preservatives used in cosmetics to extend shelf life. Their downside is that their chemical structure resembles female sex hormones, estrogens, which is why many fear their hormone-like effects. While there was a hypothesis that parabens cause cancer, it has not been scientifically proven. However, studies have shown that parabens can accumulate in the body, with higher concentrations found in women, likely due to greater cosmetic use.

Conclusions About Parabens

• They are not present in certified natural cosmetics.
• The link between parabens and breast cancer is not scientifically proven, but their ability to accumulate in the human body has been identified.
• The EU has set permissible concentrations of parabens in cosmetics up to 0.4%.
  

  Should You Fear Parabens?

  Nadezhda advises minimizing their use. Take the time to review your cosmetics and find alternatives to some of the listed products to help your skin.