Discovering the Radiant Beauty of Liguria, Italy

Italy, a country where every square meter boasts an architectural monument or a picturesque view, is a magnet for tourists. The influx of visitors to these lands is as endless as the birth of children; each year brings a new wave. Some, like me, fall hopelessly in love with the country, choosing Italy as their travel destination time and time again. Despite my numerous visits, I have only managed to explore up to the middle of the “boot,” and have seen only the highlights. This time, I discovered the radiant Liguria.

Liguria: The Jewel of the Italian Riviera

Liguria is one of Italy’s 20 provinces, distinguished by its unique location. Alongside Nice, Cannes, and the principality of Monaco, Liguria is part of the Italian-French Riviera, a magnet for modern European aristocracy and millionaires. Therefore, budget travel in Liguria is challenging; even modest accommodation during the low season can cost between 80-100 euros per day. However, the breathtaking beauty makes it worth every penny.

Portovenere: A Sight to Behold

The Ligurian coast is a stunning example of how once tiny and poor fishing villages have transformed into the most fashionable resorts. Portovenere, a gem of Liguria, is entirely listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, along with three islands: Palmaria, Tino, and Tinetto.

The place is fantastically picturesque, a true magnet for tourists, and was once an inspiration for great poets. It is said that Dante conceived his “Divine Comedy” here, and Sir George Gordon Byron found his poetic muse. The Grotto of Byron, possibly named symbolically, adds to the allure. The essence of such places lies not in their names but in their natural beauty. The combination of cliffs, sea azure, and greenery is breathtaking. The sea foams and rages, stubbornly crashing against the black-and-white cliffs, making you feel as if the technological world has been left far behind. It’s just you and nature, face to face. A colossal unloading of an information-overloaded mind.

Exploring Portovenere

To explore the entire town of Portovenere, have lunch at Byron’s Grotto, and take a swim in the sea, you need a full day. If you plan to take a boat tour to the three islands, set aside two days. In any case, it’s worth staying longer. In the evening, the promenade is lit with romantic lights and filled with pleasant aromas.

What to see in Portovenere:

The Grotto of Byron.
The Church of St. Peter (13th century) at the top of a cliff (free entry).
The Doria Castle (13th century).
The Roman gates leading to the old part of the town, and the town itself.
The Cathedral of St. Lawrence (11th century).

For budget travelers, a bus ride from La Spezia to Portovenere costs 2.5 euros and takes 30 minutes. You can return to La Spezia, the southernmost point of Liguria and a port, by boat for 8 euros. It’s also cheaper to stay in La Spezia, and traveling along the entire Ligurian coast is easy and convenient by train, boat, or bus.

The Cinque Terre: A National Treasure

Most tourists visit Liguria specifically for the Cinque Terre National Park. This park consists of five small rocky villages on the sea coast with houses painted in various colors: Riomaggiore, Manarola, Corniglia, Vernazza, and Monterosso. Each stop is a postcard-perfect Italian scene. No matter which lens you use, the picture will be beautiful; Cinque Terre has exceptional photogenicity.

You can explore the national park in several ways. Take a boat from La Spezia to Monterosso or from Levanto to Riomaggiore, depending on where you are staying. The boat stops at each village except Corniglia, the highest and rockiest, situated 100 meters above sea level. Here, you’ll find a surprise—a quiet nudist beach. The boat might not stop here for this reason as well. If you want to wander the streets of Corniglia, you can take a train from Manarola or Vernazza; the journey takes just a few minutes. You can spend the whole day hopping from village to village on a single boat ticket.

The second way to explore Cinque Terre is by train. The journey between villages takes a few minutes, and trains run every half hour.

The third option is to walk the entire route on the Azure Trail. This 12-kilometer trail takes about 5-6 hours to complete. The Azure Trail has varying difficulty levels, but overall, it is manageable even for unprepared tourists. Remember to bring water and sun protection. Walking the trail guarantees views of indescribable beauty. The national park’s website regularly updates information on which sections of the Azure Trail might be temporarily closed due to landslides. Check this information in advance.

Car access to Cinque Terre is prohibited as the park is protected by UNESCO.

We chose a mixed approach. We took a train from La Spezia to Riomaggiore and planned to walk the Love Trail to Manarola—a pleasant 1-kilometer route. However, the trail was closed due to a landslide, so we took a section of the Azure Trail instead. Besides the stunning views, the most remarkable part of this ascent was that our three-year-old son accompanied us. He was the only child on this stretch among all the tourists we met, which amazed everyone. Indeed, even for an adult, walking a narrow rocky trail under the scorching sun is not easy. But our lively and energetic boy skipped along like a mountain goat. From Manarola to Monterosso, we took a boat. Monterosso is the only village in Cinque Terre with a sandy beach and a gentle sea entry. It’s worth noting that Cinque Terre is not a beach destination; the sea entry is mostly rocky. For beach lovers, Levanto, Rapallo, and Santa Margherita Ligure are better options.

Santa Margherita Ligure and Portofino: Prestige and Authenticity

Prestige and charming Italian authenticity are the first things that greet you in Santa Margherita Ligure and Portofino. Strolling along the promenade of Santa Margherita Ligure, you’ll realize that some people live a different life, where multimillion-dollar yachts are an everyday reality. Here, it’s quiet and peaceful, with a good beach, plenty of flowers, and lovely non-chain hotels in the style of old Italian architecture. There’s even a separate beach for dogs. In the center of Santa Margherita Ligure stands a monument to Columbus. Some sources mention that Columbus indicated this village as his birthplace. Although the fact is not proven and is disputed by all biographers of the great traveler, for the residents of Santa Margherita Ligure, it is the truth. If you are vacationing in Liguria, be sure to visit here—you will enjoy the aesthetic pleasure of walking through the town.

From Santa Margherita Ligure to Portofino, you can travel by car, bus, or choose the sea route: a boat will take you to one of the most expensive marinas on the coast and one of the most picturesque places in Italy. According to the latest census data, slightly more than 500 people live in Portofino. This is a tiny elite resort with the cleanest sea, loved primarily by the Italians themselves. Simply strolling and dining here is a special kind of pleasure.